This season saw the future clash with the past in an explosion of Swarovski crystals at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018 (February 27–March 6). Three of the city's new-wave labels-Y/Project, Koché and Marine Serre-kept some of the established names on their chicly shod toes.
Its ever forward-pushing creative director Glenn Martens didn't let his highly expectant audience down. This was one of the hot-ticket shows, and he delivered a crystal-lashed performance worthy of the master he is set to become. Some of the standout looks were his street-meets-burlesque mash-ups, which brought titillating 1950s glamour to a sheer top, a white tee and tan pants via teasingly placed crystallized patches. Signature giant spiral-hoop Swarovski Crystal Pearl earrings made a welcome return, this time accompanied by multi-loop Swarovski Crystal Pearl bracelets snaking all the way up the arm. Elsewhere, Fancy Stones blazed from sandals and buttons, while golden Swarovski Crystal Pearls were strung together as belts through denim.
Supporting Christelle Kocher for a fabulous fourth season, Swarovski crystals put the shake 'n' shimmer into her vintage sci-fi show at the Casino de Paris. Of the five crystallized looks, a loose-fit gold satin tux and an oversize champagne sweater shone out, fizzing with clusters of Sew-ons and Swarovski Crystal Pearls. Choosing the shadier side of the runway, but no less brilliant for it, a black leather sleeveless top and side-slit pencil skirt fluttered with crystal-embellished leather appliqué flowers. Elsewhere, a sheer sleeveless tee was draped in contrasting strands of pale gold Swarovski Crystal Pearls. Flower-strewn tights completed the decadently vintage mood.
This was the first Paris Fashion Week runway show presented by the winner of the 2018 LVMH Prize, and she sure made it count. Her FutureWear collection sought to bring an ultra-modern "clash of techniques and references to reflect the hybrid editing of contemporary reality." With gymnastic silhouettes and upcycled materials in bright jewel colors, enhanced with dégradé crystal effects on body sleeves and pants, set off with huge glitzy earrings, the results certainly grabbed the industry's attention. And just in case we needed a reminder of this rising fashion star, "Marine Serre" was spelled out in bespoke crystal transfers below her trademark crescent moon motif. We predict big things for this gifted future-gazer.