21–27 February, 2018: Milan Fashion Week’s key collections bring an alternative perspective to the two strongest messages coming through this season: inclusivity and the larger-than-life 80s. While Alberto Zambelli presented a softer, less strident take on the identity politics that emboldened last season’s global fashion runways, at Vivetta we discovered a more flirty, feminine side to the era of big money and even bigger shoulder pads.
The “embrace” theme was evident from the off in a couple motif that was picked out against black in an aerographic print and lustrous crystals on dresses, jackets and tops. Zambelli is presenting it to us as an “authentic, daily gesture,” and he underscored this message with his use of natural fabrics cut so as to caress and envelop the body. Indeed, his customary minimalist style benefits from the fluidity achieved using asymmetric draping and caping. Highlights included a maxi-scarf and a mosaic-style closure, both shimmering with iridescent White Opal stones. In total, he used 32,000 Swarovski crystals in shades of black and white to bring shimmer to this celebration of humanity.
It was the Rome of the 80s, exemplified by flame-haired actress Marina Ripa Di Meana and played by original supermodel Carol Alt in cult movie I miei primi 40 anni (My First 40 Years) that gave Vivetta Ponti’s show its upbeat mood. We’re talking seductive, frivolous and fabulous demonstrated in polka dots, glitter, ruching and neon. Another nod to her high-glam style could be spotted in the classic sunglasses and scarf combo that accessorized key looks. As a leitmotif for her collection, she chose crystallized gloves and hands, while other key details included gleaming snake prints created using a crystal transfer; shoes that peeped out with crystal eyes; and pieces emblazoned with a sparkling Vivetta logo. It comes as no surprise to learn that 320,000 Swarovski crystals were required in order to match the vision of Italy’s first lady of seduction. Bravissima!