The surroundings were effortlessly elegant (the St. Regis hotel in the heart of Midtown Manhattan), and the clothes perfectly matched the venue. Watching Jason Wu’s Autumn/Winter 2017 collection swish down the runway on February 10, just one day into New York Fashion Week, already feels like he has stolen the whole event. These are seriously stylish, grown-up silhouettes: every beaded black dress, every flowered and floaty frock, every slinky velvet trouser suit, is beautifully feminine and oh so seductive, while being eminently wearable.
It’s clear why Michelle Obama has remained such a big fan after giving him his breakthrough moment in that white chiffon one-shoulder gown back in 2009. There isn’t a single piece here that you wouldn’t beg, borrow or steal to put in your wardrobe. Then, look a little closer, and you can see where Wu is really enjoying himself: those blooms are dotted all over with crystals and there are line drawings of nudes peeking out from the petals. Those lustrous golden and glossy black velvets are made even more sumptuous with the addition of Swarovski crystal pearls. There are glittering bespoke crystal transfers creatively placed over lace to enhance the patterns. And—in a very special preview—many of the looks are completed with jewelry from his forthcoming Atelier Swarovski by Jason Wu Mosaic collection. In total, he used nearly 68,000 crystals on this runway, and the effect is exquisite: glam, but never glitzy.
Images by Dan Lecca & Eli Schmidt